In the heart of vibrant Silver Lake, beneath the Los Angeles sun, is a spot where the soul of the South tangos with SoCal-Mexican flair. All Day Baby, the second act from Chef Jonathan Whitener and Lien Ta, is a poem to their past—a symphony of culinary nostalgia.
The moment you step in, the atmosphere envelops you in its comforting embrace—a ‘joyful, feel-good’ setting that promises a seat at the family table. The hard, flat chairs, likely designed for a quick turnover during busy weekends, are the only stark reminder that this is still urban LA, not Grandma’s cozy kitchen.
Then comes the food, and oh, how each bite sings. The biscuit sandwich, with its delicate scrambled eggs and sweet, punchy strawberry jam, is a revelation, a childhood memory reborn sophisticated. My dining companion and I exchanged glances of delight, our taste buds dancing in harmony with the exquisite breading on the fried chicken sandwich. Every crunch was an echo of perfection, resonating with the tangy pimento cheese and crisp green tomato.
And yet, as we later discovered, this delightful dance came with a surprising partner: discomfort. Post-meal, our stomachs churned in revolt. Was it the shared biscuit with salted butter, or perhaps the scrambled eggs that graced both our plates? The cause remains a mystery, but the discomfort was all too real. I was mildly unsettled, but my friend was leaning into nausea.
Despite the charm of the attentive staff and our initial infatuation with the flavorful dishes, our anticipation for a return visit now hangs in the balance. What was a love affair during the meal has been tainted with the shadow of that post-dining malaise.
Ultimately, All Day Baby remains a paradox—a feast for the senses that left an unforeseen, uncomfortable memory in its wake. An establishment so rooted in love and legacy, it’s a tragedy that it might be remembered by us for its unsettling aftermath.
For its bold, innovative takes on modern classics, but a meal that was later marred by discomfort, All Day Baby earns 3 out of 5 forks.
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