Tucked between Atwater Village and Glendale, in a mysterious no-man’s land, you’ll find MOMED - a restaurant operating under the constant audiovisual drama of a roaring railway. Here, the clash of industry and hospitality creates an unusual dining backdrop.
Our brunch began on a high note with the Yogurt Biscuits, a soft pleasure, unfortunately, let down by a rose petal jam that lacked any rose petal essence. The virgin cocktail dubbed “Ring My Bell” initially intrigued us with its avant-garde pairing of watermelon and bell pepper but quickly turned monotonous, evoking notions of an experimental gazpacho rather than a refreshing drink. A shift towards lemony brightness would’ve done wonders.
MOMED’s oven-roasted beets were good, and the avocado omelet intriguing, with the tarragon adding an unexpected herbal twist. But the Momed Burger fell short of greatness, reminding us why Goldburger still holds the crown. The accompanying Momo chips, however, were a crunchy delight.
The Smoked Salmon plate provoked thoughts on the merit of pre-assembled meals, as we grappled with composing perfect bites. The dish’s texture erred on the tough side, requiring a more vigorous chew than anticipated.
The sole standout was the Khachapuri, a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread, here further embellished with sujuk, a dry, spicy sausage. It was a hearty delight amidst an otherwise uninspired spread. A notable absence was chicken, a versatile protein whose many iterations could’ve added a much-needed variety to the menu.
The server, while commendably knowledgeable, skewed towards the unnerving side of passionate. The outdoor setting, meanwhile, offered ample room for aesthetic improvement - the stark rail tracks could benefit from a lush screen of jasmine or a similar green intervention.
Regrettably, MOMED’s performance didn’t hit the mark for us - an underwhelming symphony against the rhythmic clatter of passing trains. Thus, we must award it 2 out of 5 forks.
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