Ah, Wood – a humble name for an establishment that seems to have lived a past life as some fried chicken joint or a coffee and donut drive-thru. You can feel it in its architectural bones. Yet, lo and behold, its reincarnation is a far cry from rubbery nuggets or sugar-glazed rings.
Venturing in thrice, one might think I was expecting to witness a culinary holy trinity. In some ways, I did.
Take one: Pepperoni pizza, upgraded with fennel sausage and specifically requested “well done.” To my delight, it was far from the caricature of a greasy, floppy disaster you’d get in a late-night joint. Instead, it was a Neapolitan-style masterpiece with a crust that’d make a Naples pizzaiolo beam with pride.
Then, there was the Chicken Rustica - spinach gnocchi swapped out for their house-made pappardelle. An Italian grandmother would be proud of that pasta - perfectly al dente, a toothsome symphony. The only hiccup? A slight scarcity of chicken. But the glorious mushrooms, the flirtation of garlic slices, and the creamy yet light sauce more than made up for it.
Take two: A déjà vu situation with the pappardelle substitution. However, a bit of persistence smoothed the waters and once again, the Rustica reigned supreme. The Margherita pizza also made an appearance – simple, elegant, and pleasing in its austerity.
Take three: The Chicken Rustica, by now my faithful culinary companion, and Della Nona, with slow-braised beef stew that whispered tales of ancient Italian kitchens, met on the same table. The Della Nona was the unassuming underdog that punched well above its weight, the beef tender and flavorful.
The Rustica, though? A culinary overachiever, but so rich it’s like trying to read an entire Game of Thrones novel in one sitting. It begs to be shared.
Throughout each act of this culinary drama, the service remained a beacon of consistency, an impressive feat in an industry known for its chaos. And so was the food. The only twinge of discomfort? The price tag. In the city of Angels, you’d expect to be robbed blind for a celestial dining experience. But $35 for a pepperoni pizza and $29 for a dish that’s playing chicken with its chicken content? Ouch.
There are other Italian orchestras in LA like Angelini Osteria, Della Terra, and La Pergoletta. They serve you beautiful Arias, without leaving your wallet singing the blues.
So, to the great folks at Wood, I raise my glass of Prosecco (for which I’ve probably paid too much) and award you 4 out of 5 Forks. You’re like a beautifully painted Italian fresco that’s slightly overpriced. But then again, aren’t we all suckers for good art?
Comments